The Pembrokeshire Coast, Britain's only truly coastal national park, stretches along 186 miles of rugged cliffs, sandy beaches, wooded estuaries, and wild inland hills. This spectacular region of southwest Wales combines natural beauty with fascinating history, vibrant wildlife, and charming seaside communities. Whether you're an avid walker, a nature enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking the restorative power of sea air, Pembrokeshire offers an unforgettable coastal experience.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path: A Walker's Paradise
The jewel in Pembrokeshire's crown is undoubtedly its coastal path, part of the Wales Coast Path and widely regarded as one of the world's finest long-distance walking routes. Established in 1970, this 186-mile trail follows the coastline from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels in the north, offering constantly changing views and terrain.
Walking Highlights
While tackling the entire path takes around two weeks, many visitors choose to walk selected sections, each with its own distinctive character:
South Pembrokeshire: Limestone Cliffs and Golden Beaches
The southern section from Amroth to Freshwater West features limestone cliffs, golden beaches, and the fascinating limestone stacks and arches around Lydstep and Skrinkle Haven. Don't miss Barafundle Bay, frequently voted one of Britain's most beautiful beaches—accessed via a half-mile walk from Stackpole Quay, its seclusion is part of its charm.
Central Section: Volcanic Headlands and Harbor Towns
From Freshwater West to St Davids, the coast becomes more rugged with volcanic headlands and sheltered coves. This section includes the picturesque harbor towns of Tenby and Solva, with their colorful buildings and bustling waterfronts. The stretch around St Govan's Chapel—a tiny medieval chapel built into the cliff face—offers some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in Wales.
North Pembrokeshire: Wild and Remote
The northern stretch from St Davids to St Dogmaels is the most challenging but also the most rewarding. Here, the path climbs and falls repeatedly as it crosses steep valleys carved by streams flowing to the sea. Dinas Head and Strumble Head provide panoramic viewpoints, while the section around Pwll Deri offers some of the park's most untamed coastal landscapes.
Practical Walking Advice
- Difficulty: The path varies from easy strolls to challenging hikes with steep ascents and descents. Official guides rate each section for difficulty.
- Coastal Shuttle Buses: The "Coastal Cruiser" shuttle buses connect key points along the coast during spring and summer, allowing for one-way walks without the need to retrace your steps.
- Walking Season: May and June offer the best combination of favorable weather and wildflowers, while September and October provide mild temperatures and fewer crowds. However, the path is walkable year-round.
- Equipment: Sturdy footwear, waterproofs, and layers are essential regardless of season due to changeable coastal weather.
Coastal Communities: Charm and Character
Pembrokeshire's coastal towns and villages each have their own distinctive character, providing perfect bases for exploring the surrounding coastline.
Tenby: Medieval Walls and Victorian Charm
Perhaps Pembrokeshire's most picturesque town, Tenby combines medieval town walls, a historic harbor, and four golden beaches with colorful Georgian buildings. Wander the narrow cobbled streets, visit the 13th-century castle ruins, or take a boat trip to Caldey Island, home to Cistercian monks who make and sell their own chocolate and perfume.
Stay at: The Broadmead Boutique B&B, a stylishly renovated Edwardian house a short walk from the town center, or The Esplanade, a seafront hotel with stunning views over South Beach.
St Davids: Britain's Smallest City
Despite its city status (granted due to its magnificent 12th-century cathedral), St Davids feels more like a large village. The impressive cathedral sits in a hollow to hide it from marauding Vikings, while the adjacent Bishop's Palace ruins speak to the area's religious significance. The city makes an excellent base for exploring the rugged northern coast and taking boat trips to spot marine wildlife around Ramsey Island.
Stay at: Twr y Felin Hotel, a former windmill converted into Wales' first contemporary art hotel, or the more affordable Aelwyd Hostel, perfect for walkers.
Fishguard: Two Towns in One
Divided between the main town on the hill and Lower Fishguard (the old port area), Fishguard offers a more authentic Welsh experience away from the main tourist trail. The town is famous as the site of the "Last Invasion of Britain" in 1797, depicted in a remarkable 100-foot tapestry displayed in the Town Hall. The picturesque Lower Town harbor featured in the film adaptation of Dylan Thomas's "Under Milk Wood."
Stay at: Manor Town House, a stylish Georgian townhouse with sea views, or Fishguard Bay Hotel, perched on the headland with panoramic views of the harbor.
Natural Wonders: Wildlife and Landscapes
Pembrokeshire's coastal ecosystems support an astonishing diversity of wildlife, making it a paradise for nature enthusiasts.
Seabird Colonies
The dramatic cliffs host internationally important seabird colonies. Grassholm Island appears white from a distance due to its 39,000 pairs of nesting gannets, while Skomer Island is famous for its puffins (best seen from April to July) and the largest Manx Shearwater colony in the world. Boat trips operate from Martin's Haven, Milford Haven, and St Davids, with some offering island landings during the breeding season.
Marine Wildlife
The waters around Pembrokeshire are home to an impressive array of marine mammals. Bottlenose dolphins are frequently spotted along the coast, particularly around Cardigan Bay. Harbor porpoises, Atlantic grey seals, and occasionally minke whales can also be seen. Specialized wildlife boat trips operate from various harbors, while the coastal path itself offers excellent vantage points—bring binoculars!
Geological Marvels
Pembrokeshire's coastline showcases 300 million years of geological history. The northern section features ancient volcanic rocks, while the south has dramatic limestone formations. Notable sites include:
- Green Bridge of Wales: A magnificent natural limestone arch near Castlemartin (access may be restricted when the military range is active).
- Stack Rocks: Impressive limestone pillars standing free from the cliff face.
- Strumble Head: Volcanic outcrops with distinctive hexagonal basalt columns similar to Northern Ireland's Giant's Causeway.
Historic Pembrokeshire: Castles and Ancient Sites
Pembrokeshire's strategic coastal position has shaped its rich history, evident in the numerous historic sites dotting the landscape.
Pembroke Castle
The birthplace of Henry VII, the first Tudor monarch, Pembroke Castle is one of Wales' finest Norman fortresses. Set dramatically on a rocky promontory overlooking the Pembroke River, the castle features a massive round keep, extensive walls, and natural caverns beneath. The interactive displays and regular historical reenactments bring the castle's medieval past to life.
St Non's Chapel and Holy Well
Perched on the cliffs near St Davids, these ruins mark the supposed birthplace of St David, Wales' patron saint. The nearby holy well is still a place of pilgrimage, believed to have healing properties. The dramatic coastal setting and sense of ancient spirituality make this a particularly atmospheric site.
Pentre Ifan
A short detour inland leads to Pentre Ifan, Wales' most iconic Neolithic burial chamber. Dating from around 3500 BCE, its massive capstone is balanced on three upright stones, creating a striking silhouette against the sky. The site offers magnificent views over the surrounding countryside to the sea beyond.
Coastal Activities: Beyond Walking
While walking may be the most popular way to experience Pembrokeshire's coast, numerous other activities allow visitors to engage with this remarkable landscape.
Coasteering
Invented in Pembrokeshire, coasteering combines cliff jumping, rock climbing, cave exploration, and swimming to create an adrenaline-filled adventure along the coast's edge. Numerous qualified operators offer guided sessions suitable for various ages and abilities, with the area around St Davids particularly popular. Outer Reef, Celtic Quest Coasteering, and TYF Adventure are all well-established operators with excellent safety records.
Sea Kayaking
Exploring Pembrokeshire's hidden coves, sea caves, and offshore islands by kayak offers a unique perspective on the coastline. Beginners can take guided trips in sheltered waters, while experienced kayakers can rent equipment and explore independently. The stretch between Stackpole Quay and Barafundle Bay is particularly beautiful for novices, while the waters around Ramsey Island challenge even experienced paddlers.
Surfing and Paddleboarding
Freshwater West and Newgale are Pembrokeshire's premier surf beaches, offering consistent waves suitable for all abilities. Surf schools at both locations provide lessons and equipment rental. For calmer waters, stand-up paddleboarding on the sheltered waters of Pembrokeshire's harbors and estuaries has become increasingly popular—try Dale or the Cleddau Estuary for ideal conditions.
Local Cuisine: Coastal Flavors
Pembrokeshire's food scene showcases the county's abundant seafood and local produce, with restaurants ranging from simple cafés to fine dining establishments.
Seafood Specialties
Fresh seafood is Pembrokeshire's culinary highlight. Don't miss these local specialties:
- Pembrokeshire Crab: Sweet, delicate crab meat served simply with brown bread and lemon. Try it at Mrs Will the Fish in Solva.
- Tenby Lobster: Locally caught lobster is a specialty at The Mooring in Tenby Harbor.
- Oysters: Pembrokeshire oysters are cultivated in the clean waters of the Cleddau Estuary. Sample them at The Shed Fish & Chip Bistro in Porthgain.
Notable Restaurants
- Coast: Located on the beach at Coppet Hall near Saundersfoot, this modern restaurant emphasizes sustainable seafood with panoramic sea views.
- The Stackpole Inn: A charming country pub near Barafundle Bay serving sophisticated dishes using local ingredients.
- Café Môr: This award-winning food truck at Freshwater West serves seafood with a Welsh twist, including their famous lobster rolls and seaweed-infused dishes.
Planning Your Pembrokeshire Coastal Journey
Getting There and Around
- By Train: The nearest mainline stations are Haverfordwest and Carmarthen, with connecting buses to coastal communities.
- By Car: The M4 leads to South Wales, continuing as the A40 to Haverfordwest. From there, smaller roads lead to coastal destinations.
- Local Transport: The Coastal Cruiser buses connect coastal towns and villages during spring and summer. The "Puffin Shuttle," "Poppit Rocket," "Celtic Coaster," and "Coastal Cruiser" services are specifically designed to serve walkers.
When to Visit
- Spring (April-June): Mild weather, wildflowers, and nesting seabirds make this an ideal time. May is particularly good for coastal flowers.
- Summer (July-August): The busiest season with the warmest weather, ideal for beach activities but expect crowds at popular spots.
- Autumn (September-October): Quieter beaches, still-warm sea temperatures, and spectacular sunsets make autumn a locals' favorite.
- Winter (November-March): Dramatic seas, empty beaches, and cozy pubs characterize winter visits. The coastal path remains walkable, though shorter days require careful planning.
Suggested Itinerary: 5 Days in Coastal Pembrokeshire
Day 1: Arrive and explore Tenby, with its medieval walls, harbor, and beautiful beaches.
Day 2: Visit Stackpole Estate, walking from Stackpole Quay to Barafundle Bay and Broad Haven South. Continue to Bosherston Lily Ponds.
Day 3: Drive to St Davids to visit the cathedral and explore the small city. Take a boat trip around Ramsey Island to see seabirds and marine wildlife.
Day 4: Walk a section of the coastal path from Porthgain to Abereiddi, visiting the Blue Lagoon (a former slate quarry now filled with startlingly blue water). Enjoy fresh seafood at The Shed in Porthgain.
Day 5: Visit Pembroke Castle in the morning, then drive to Freshwater West for its expansive beach and dunes, perhaps with a surfing lesson if conditions allow.
Conclusion
Pembrokeshire's coast offers a rare combination of natural beauty, rich history, diverse wildlife, and welcoming communities. Whether you're walking the coastal path, exploring historic sites, engaging in adventure activities, or simply relaxing on award-winning beaches, this corner of Wales provides an authentic coastal experience that rivals any in Europe.
What makes Pembrokeshire truly special is its accessibility—the most dramatic coastal scenery is never far from a welcoming village, a cozy pub, or a charming place to stay. This blend of wild nature and human comfort creates the perfect balance for a memorable coastal journey.
As Welsh poet Dylan Thomas, who had strong connections to the area, wrote: "This sea-town was my world." Spend time along the Pembrokeshire coast, and you may well feel the same way.
